Part 4 - Northern Territory

Now we are in the Northern Territory.  We departed Mt Isa this morning and travelled around 450 km to a place called Barkly Homestead, which is sort of in the middle of nowhere – about 200 km from the nearest town.  It is a cattle station around 465,000 acres where cattle are mustered by helicopter.  They own a fuel stop/eatery/bar/camp ground in the guise of roadhouse with shady trees and powered sites around the back.  Diesel was $1.96 per litre after being $1.49 in Mt Isa this morning. A stubby of beer was $5.60, and a splice icy pole was $4.20.  The majority of the road was excellent except for about 10 km when we crossed the NT border.  We also passed though Camooweal where the local store owners are animal conversationalists.  So Shirley got to cuddle a 5 months old red kangaroo joey.

It was very pleasant having a “coldie” with a local in the bar.  Then the six of us (three couples, in case I have not mentioned before) demolished two big boxes of hot cooked chips – which had so much salt we were forced to quench our thirst with the obvious Outback drink.

 
The army must be on the move as at Barkly Homestead we saw the first of about 70 army vehicles (small, big & huge) to pass is heading somewhere east.  We had a stroke of luck here as all three of us bought diesel from the same place who was unknowingly serving diesel with water.  We know of four people who had a problem - one with a new Mercedes - one in a rented motor home - another two in Land Cruisers.  THese people bought diesel BEFORE and AFTER us.  Phew. 

On Wednesday 22^nd we drove a mere 330 km to Renner Springs, which is a roadhouse not a town.  So we started at a cattle station, drove 330 km, never went through a town, and stopped at a roadhouse.  For the second night in a row we stopped at a roadhouse-type establishment where the main feature was a rustic outback bar.  For the second time this trip I cooked scones for the troops.  They were soon demolished.  Apart from being attacked by five over zealous geese (who probably wanted to eat my camera) the evening was quiet, pleasant and uneventful.  This was the first night since leaving Melbourne where we had absolutely no mobile reception.  Diesel at Renner Springs was $2.05 per litre but our capacity allowed us to look and smile – but not purchase.  In fact once we left Camooweal on the border it was another 600 or 700 km before we saw a town –just the odd roadhouse – and some of them were odd.

Just before Renner Springs we accidently happened onto a place called Newcastle Waters which was about 4 km off the highway.  This town (not even a pub) is famous as a watering hole for the droving teams many years ago.  Apart from a school about the only thing here is a tribute statue to drovers and a stack of water with zillions of waterbirds.  Great photo opportunity.

The roads are so straight in this neck of the woods that there are signs with arrows to indicate the occasional turn – in case you are in cruise control with a coffee and biscuits in hand.  If we had not been towing the van we could have taken all corners at the permissible speed limit (i.e. 130 km).

Then came one of the highlights of the trip so far – Daly Waters.  We camped for $24 and then surveyed the pub.  It was to be seen to be believed.  The “Beef & Barra” (at $27.50) has to be tasted to believed.  We did not even look to see what else was on the menu.  The entertainment was superb.  Mere words are not good enough to describe this place.  It is not even on the main road (i.e. Stuart Highway) – although only a few km off it.  I was up before dawn to go for a walk down a local historic track (all about John Stuart the explorer).

Next stop was Mataranka and the hot springs – about 30 degrees I think.  We relaxed here for two days, about 300 metres from the hot springs.  One of the additional highlights here was the water birds and the friendly wallabies – one of whom had a ‘big’ joey in her pouch.  It was now starting to get warm with the days into the mid twenties but still cool nights.  Shirley and I visited the Mataranka Saturday market and spent an entire 45 secnods there – three stalls with nothing of interest.

I continue to be fascinated by the huge range of water birds and windmills – in a part of the country that is renowned for being dry.  I have fluked some good (for me) photos of birds – even a kookaburra – different to the type seen in Victoria.

Next stop was Katherine on Sunday 26^th June.  It was fairly hot as we pulled into a grassy and shady caravan park.  Before long I had met a fellow lawn bowler who bowls for Eltham.  Bob clued me up on where the best spot for beer was in Katherine.  This action was duly taken and product was purchased.  We also caught up with my sister and her husband (Lynn & Daryl) who drove down from Darwin to have an evening with us – and very enjoyable it was as well.

On Tuesday (28^th I think) we headed off 300 (of 500) km towards Kununurra and stopped at a small place called Timber Creek.  It was a dry as a bone but we had lovely grassy sites.  This area is popular for its Barra fishing and fresh water crays.  We have also started to see Kimberley type landscape with the flat planes seemingly behind us.  The following is a sample of the sights.

 
  We will have covered about 4800 km by the time we cross the border into WA tomorrow.  With a bit of luck we will get to the WA border before we leave Timber Creek (with the 90 minute clock change.  It was not starting to get hotter with days in the low 30s and nights getting warmer.  Apart from one tank of diesel at $1.97 per litre the most we have paid is $1.56.  But lets wait and see what happens up the track.

Please note the photos of our travelling clan (great haircuts on the blokes):

Chris, Darryl, John and Fay, Shirley & Kay

****** End of posting - West Oz Next *******

Part 3 - Landsborough Highway - Queensland

And so is was interesting that we were 2500 km out of Melbourne and having not traversed a hill since before Shepparton that we departed from Winton. The 340 km drive to Cloncurry was normal and uneventful except for a drink in the McKinlay pub that was used in the Crocodile Dundee film. Then we established that it was show day in Cloncurry and everything was closed - so we pressed onwards to Mt Isa. The 120 km to Mt Isa is a lovely undulating (trees included) drive that has no straight roads and no flat roads - what a refreshing change – not seen since about Kilmore.

We enjoyed Mt Isa, partly because of the lovely weather and partly because of Mt Isa itself.  We did an underground mine tour – the mine being specially dug for tourists.  We had to don gum boots, overalls, hat, belt and light.  Did I look good in bright orange.  The photo has been deemed “classified”.  Today we visited an underground hospital, that was never used.  It was built during WW2 when intelligence suggested that the Japanese were intending to bomb Mt Isa, partly because of the prolific lead production (handy for bullets) and the 500 US troops stationed here.  It never happened. 

As a special treat we dined at the Irish club on our last night in Mt Isa.  The Guinness is said to be the best outside Ireland – and I agree with that assessment.  The Guinness & beef pie was also excellent.  Mt Isa is an amazing place in many ways – too many to mention here.  I suggest that you put it on your “Bucket List”.

I hope you like my new haircut (see photo).

We will have covered about 3250 km by the time we cross the border into NT tomorrow (Tuesday).  On the way we will pass another town put in song by Slim Dusty – Camooweal.

......... Posting complete ............

Part 2 - Matilda Way - Queensland

Our first stop of note (re size) in Queensland was Cunnamulla which was a sad and sorry looking place. The bakery even had burnt pies. The highlight of the visit was just the statue of the Cunnamulla Fella, who was immortalised in song by Slim Dusty. Now that I have had my brush with Slim Dusty we are on the lookout for a “pub with no beer”, and we can become “wine dots”.

Another favourite of Slim’s was Charleville and we duly arrived there about two hours later. We camped the night on a 17,000 acre station (who supplement their meagre income by inviting campers) where we had our second campfire in two nights. The station is about half stocked with a mere 1200 head of cattle. We could not go star gazing at the Cosmos centre as it was too overcast so we gazed into the bottom of a glass or two. It was not a late night.

Next morning (Fri 10^th) the temperature on the car thermometer was -1 at 7am, so I went for a walk – because I could. About 300 metres into the walk I heard footsteps (so I thought) and turned around to see a youngish kangaroo (just above waist height) following me. No, he did not need lessons on lawn bowls. He just wanted a mate for a walk on a very frosty morning. He stayed with me for the 40 minute walk and even posed for photos and let me scratch his head. And yes, I was sober.

We travelled another 300 odd km for the day and arrived at Blackall – one of the many places famed for the source of the saying “beyond the black stump”. So in 8 days we have been “back o Bourke” and “beyond the black stump”. Our dinner was a campfire cooked roast beef (to die for), veges, damper & jam and billy tea. The following day was very leisurely with long walks being followed by a tour over a woolscouring shed – which is where wool is washed and tried before being shipped overseas. The washing is performed with artesian water that comes to the surface about 52 degrees – pretty warm. The shed also includes shearing stands, so in the one location the wool is shorn, washed, dried and baled. By this time we thought that we deserved a soak in a spa fed by the same artesian water, but at a more comfortable 32 degrees.

The day was completed by a visit at the park by Graeme Rodger – a Slim Dusty clone – who provided some great singing while we sipped on a drink before cooking the BBQ. He was very good.

Sunday saw us head off through Barcaldine to Infracombe which is a popular stopping place because of its mile of (old and protected) machinery and a few other attractions – including the pub. As the sun was very close to “over the yard arm” I tested the amber fluid while checking out the many hats, $A notes on the ceiling and the cartoons sketched on the wall. The tasted liquid was cold and exellent. We then drove the 27 km to Longreach which is famous for many things – most of them something Qantas or something stockman.

Our first visit was the Qantas FoundersMuseum and it was everything people have told us it would be. Magnificent. We had a detailed tour over a 747-200 (similar to the one I travelled on to London in 1974) and a 707 – which was the first Qantas owned jet and the first 707 sold to an airline outside the USA. The latter jet had many owners and one of them fitted it out luxuriously so that people like the Beatles, Madonna and Michael Jackson would/could/did use it. Our tour was follow by pre-dinner drinks at the camp bar as we awaited the “bush entertainment”. It was called that as most people went bush when the duo started singing – they were terrible. Not sure of the problem but I think they were a couple of “ringers” off a local cattle station with a lot of bull dust down their throat.

On Monday (Queen’s Birthday) we awaited a phone call about some Australian honours. As non came we went to the Stockman’s Hall of Fame and had a wonderful 4 or 5 hours. There was much sight seeing in the museum, but the highlight was a live show by a horse trainer, etc etc who demonstrated horse breaking/training, sheep mustering with dogs, camel attributes and hitching/working an 8 head bullock team – which constantly cracking jokes and reciting C J Dennis. Did you know that a camel can stand their hair up on end on hot days to make it work like an evaporate air conditioner. Did you also know that when a camel breathes out the breath contains NO moisture – it is retained by the body. And last but not least – camel urine is so concentrated that you could use it for nail polish remover – again to be moisture smart.

Then we headed off to Winton which is well known (by gray Nomads anyway) for its fossils and dinosaurs – as well as the birth place of Waltzing Matilda. We have never seen so many caravans on one stretch of road. Gray nomad caravans must have been over 50% of the traffic between Longreach and Winton. In some places there were convoys of 5 to 8 caravans. We duly visited the Waltzing Matilda exhibition which was another fine outback tourist attraction – brought a tear to the eye. Then the dinosaur hunt was on. Did you know that in the time of the dinosaurs the moon was closer to the earth and each day was only 20 hours long? How on earth could we have done all of our sightseeing with four hours less per day? For a laugh, do a google on “Arno’s Wall Winton”. It is an amazing demonstration of eccentricity.

The highlight was probably Shirley drumming out a tune on the musical fence and a drum kit.  You had to be there.

On Thursday we did a guided tour (read “Chris did not drive”) to Carisbrooke Station and the Dinosaur Stampede.  Our chauffer was the owner of the station and we covered 330 km, 260 on dirt roads.  Charlie quoted facts, figures, ideas, theories and philosophies for probably 8 of the 10 hours we were in his care.  We had lunch about 30 metres from a 1.5 metre rock python and afternoon tea in the middle of the 40,000 acre station  about 200 metres from where LBJ (remember him) crash landed in 1941 (i.e. during WW2).  The commentary and the scenery were both extraordinary – not to mention the scones, jam & cream for afternoon tea. The Anzac biscuits were nearly as good as mine.

***********  End of posting for this part of the journey **********.

Part 1 - Kidman Way - NSW

Day one saw a 460 km drive to Griffiths - which was the first serious town on the "Kidman Way". Not far out of Griffiths are cotton crops with a lot of cotton balls on the side of the road. So we stopped and got a handful – because we could.

We caught with friends (who left before us) and then went to the local Leagues club to eat, drink and gamble. Shirley tried “calamari schnitzel” which was a big slab of crumbed calamari. She said it was excellent. Then our three investors turned $1 into $30, $2 into $60 and $1 into $8. A happy result for all. And of course I turned $12 into three glasses of red - an excellent local Merlot called “Poker Face” – a good name in a pokies venue.

We spent 2 days (3 nights) in Griffith which is a nice place, and would have been much better were it not for the plentiful rain and the very cold weather. The highlight would have to be the end result of a drive down an extremely muddy 4WD road to visit a “fruit salad” farm where we tried pecan nuts, carob beans (pseudo chocolate), about six different mustards, some jams, olives, persimmon, three different red wines and some prunes. Geez. The owner was a short chubby guy of Sicilian heritage who loves a chat and loves what he does.

Night # 4 was spent at Cobar, 360 km on from Griffith. Cobar is sort of in the middle of nowhere, being over 150 km from any town above three people and a dog – not counting wild goats – which are plentiful. The main claim to fame around here is sort of “on and off” mining of copper – depending on market prices. We left the park early to take a photo of the magnificent “Cobar” sign at the entry to Cobar – which is on the old working of a closed copper mine. When we got there we found some goose in a 45 foot (or so it seemed) caravan had parked his van overnight in front of the sign. The trip north took us into the “real” outback.

The towns so far have been pleasant - being clean and attractive in a country sort of way. From memory the 360 km from Griffith to Cobar had three bends.

Nights # 5 & 6 were spent at Bourke, and of course I had to have my photo taken “back o’ Bourke” – but not before we scored a paddle steamer trip down the Darling – which in flood is no darling. Apparently many decades ago when the river flooded the paddle steamers would go cross country to pick up wool etc. Some did not get back to the Darling before the river dropped and were stranded for one to five years. There were no GPS aids in those days. However the grog that was stored in the ballast tanks would have come in handy. We visited the grave site of Fred Hollows and his location is covered by a large and magnificent hunk of granite. The evening of night # 6 was spent around a campfire having a camp-supplied BBQ with pikelets, jam and cream for dessert – plus billy tea. The entertainment came from a local bush poet and the shire CEO who gave us a few facts and figures about the local area. For example, when the Darling is in flood the water that flows passed Bourke daily is in excess of the water in Sydney Harbour. Another example, pregnant women in Bourke need to go to (at least) Dubbo (340 km) for the birth.

Our last morning in Bourke was accompanied by ice on the windscreen and a temperature around or just above zero.

Our 7^th day took us over the border into Queensland and from the Kidman Way into Matilda country. Hopefully you can work out why it is called Matilda country. More on that in the next edition. We had covered 1267 km by the time we crossed the border. So far, on the side of the road we have seen cattle, sheep, horses, wild goats, wild cats, rabbits, a dead hare, a dead pig, a dead wombat, heaps of emus, lots of kangaroos, foxes and a huge range of birds. Needless to say some of these were feeding off deceased versions of other listed animals. The roads so far have been fairly good, very straight and very flat. If you take away the caravans and the semi-trailers the roads would be very quiet.

End of posting for NSW.

   

Caravan Park Summary

• Port Hedland - Blackrock Caravan Park (Hedland South) - Cosy sites, good ameneties, limited shade 7.5/10
• Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park - Big grassy sites, very close to great beaches, good ameneties, access via 9 km of dirt road - 8/10
• Broome Caravan Park - Great sites, insufficient ameneties, but OK, excellent pool, pricey ($45), 5km out of town - 8/10
• Derby - Kimberley Extrance Caravan Park - Good sites, ameneties OK, close to shops 8/10
• Fitzroy Crossing - Fitzroy River Lodge - Excellent site and ameneties - fuel available - 9/10
• Bungle Bungles temp site - no shower - toilet OK - great site among trees - 8/10
• Bungle Bungles Caravan Park - New park - expensive but trying very hard to please 8/10
• El Questro - shady tent site - ameneties OK -  7.5/10
• Kununurra - Ivanhoe Village - Good shady sites, excellent ameneties  9/10
• Timber Creek - not sure of name - first park when coming from Katherine - small but be had great grassy sites, pool, ameneties OK - 7.5/10
• Katherine Big 4 Low Level Caravan Park- Excellent sites, first class ameneties, great pool, bar, entertainment - 9/10
• Mataranka Cabins & Camping- OK sites, hot springs nearby, good facilities, good bar, entertainment - 7/10
• Daly Waters - Great pub, superb food, good sites, great entertainment, ameneties OK - 8.5/10
• Renner Springs  - In the middle of nowhere - ordinary sites, terrible facilities, minimal alternatives if you want power - 5/10
• Barkly Homestead - An oasis in the middle of nowhere - good sites, ordinary facilities, great bar - 7/10
• Mt Isa - Argylla Tourist Park - good sites, good ameneties - 8.5/10
• Winton - Matilda Country Caravan Park - Small, great sites, "just so" ameneties, superb entertainment - 8/10
• Longreach - Discovery Caravan Park - Big and dusty, good ameneties - 8/10
• Blackall Caravan Park - Small sites - OK facilities - Great roast dinner - 7/10
• Charleville - Evening Star - Part of a cattle station - Good campfire - scarce facilities - 7/10
• Bourke Kidman Camp, BIg sites, great amenities, BBQ & bush poet - 8.5/10
• Cobar Caravan Park, Big sites but basic facilities - 7/10
• Griffith Tourist Caravan Park, Very basic but clean and OK - 6.5/10